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| A counter-depth refrigerator, via Bosch |
You'll often hear it said that appliances come in standard sizes, but there's a great deal of variation in refrigerators. So-called "standard" 36-inch refrigerators vary in height and width, and more importantly, depth. This is immediately apparent to anyone shopping for a "counter-depth" fridge. What the industry calls a "counter-depth" fridge costs several thousand dollars more than a conventional refrigerator—and still protrudes past your countertops. If you're looking for a more streamlined look, here are the options.
Recessed, Counter-Depth, Built-In, or Fully Integrated
Before you go shopping for your refrigerator, become familiar with the common terms. A standard, 36-inch wide, refrigerator is about 33 inches deep. The standard base cabinet is 24 inches deep. If you purchase a standard fridge, a good 8-9 inches will protrude past the surrounding cabinetry. If you purchase a so-called "counter-depth" refrigerator it will cost a few thousand more, and the doors will still protrude a few inches past the cabinets. Only a built-in or integrated model will sit level with your cabinet doors.
So, what's a budget-minded homeowner to do?
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| A standard refrigerator extends a good 8-9 inches past the cabinet fronts |
Recess a Full-Depth Refrigerator
If you love the counter-depth look but are put off by the price or even by the reduced interior cubic feet, a clever workaround is to recess it into the wall. This can be a smart and smart-looking option. Not only will you be able to get by with a lower cost standard refrigerator with the highest interior cubic feet available but you'll also be able to replace your refrigerator years into the future at a low replacement cost.
Recessing a refrigerator can require some advance planning. Your contractor (or you, if you are handy) will need to carve out a recess into the rear wall of up to 8 inches by removing drywall and studs. And if the wall in question is a retaining wall, you will need to install a reinforcement beam.
Note: This solution will not be completely "integrated." You will have a few inches gap on the sides of the fridge, so that the doors can swing open. If you overlook this, it could make opening the doors fully or even removing interior shelves and drawers difficult or even impossible.
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| A counter-depth refrigerator protrudes a few inches past the cabinets, via Bosch |
Counter-Depth Refrigerators
Another option is the counter-depth fridge. Though a counter-depth refrigerator may sound like a dream come true, it's a bit of a misnomer, as the doors still extend past the counter top and surrounding cabinetry. (See photo above.) You can't recess the doors past the hinges or the doors won't open. Another thing to note about these models is that as you lose depth, you lose interior cubic feet, and thus, storage space. For models that cost a few hundred dollars more than standard refrigerators, it may not seem worth it to some buyers.
Built-In Refrigerators
Built-in models have no gaps on the sides, as they have special hinges that allow the doors to open without swinging wider. Zero-clearance models include Sub Zero, Liebherr, Bosch, BlueStar, Fisher and Paykel, and Haier, among many others. Search for "zero-clearance."
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| My refrigerator, a Liebherr that has been paneled and is integrated |
Integrated Refrigerators
Integrated refrigerators look seamless. To achieve this seamlessness, you pay about twice the cost of a standard refrigerator. Integrated models are sold without panels. The buyer can choose to purchase a stainless steel panel, if you like that look, or to order panels from your cabinet maker for a more streamlined look, both at extra cost.
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| My refrigerator, during installation and before the panels were installed |
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| I ordered panels to match my pantries from the cabinet maker |
Paneled models are the most expensive. The Sub Zero 36-inch currently costs about $13,000. I went with German-made Liebherr at half the cost; they're now about $7,500—middle of the range—and I'm very happy with it. At the lower end of the integrated price range there is also the Fisher and Paykel Active Smart refrigerator that ranges from $4,000 for stainless steel to $7,000 for a tall, panel-ready model. Designers love the F&P, as contractors encounter few problems installing it. But note that it does have the least amount of interior storage space. Though sold in three heights—72, 80, and 84 inches tall—that's a bit misleading, as all three models are exactly the same refrigerator, sold in different enclosure sizes.
All three have the same internal capacity (16.8 cu. ft.), the same layout, same number of shelves and bins.
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| via Houzz |
The only difference is the taller 80-inch and 84-inch models sit on an elevated platform and are fitted with longer doors.
The taller F&P models cost a few thousand more. If you don't mind paying more for "the look" of a taller refrigerator that integrates into your tall pantries, F&P might be the fridge for you. After you panel them they're visually on par with very high-end models like Sub-Zero.
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| Fridge and freezer columns, via Subzero |
Columns
Separate freezer and refrigerator columns is a trend that's been gaining momentum among high-end kitchen designers. It can sometimes solve workflow issues. It can address the problem in a kitchen design where there isn't enough room along one run to house both together. Or it can simply present nice symmetry in designs that call for for a column on either end of a run. Though it's the most expensive option, I briefly considered it. I'm a weekend batch cooker and I need as much freezer space as refrigerator space, if not more.
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| Batch cooking in my old narrow, galley kitchen—I don't miss it! |
The skinniest column available is the 18-inch-wide Subzero. A fridge and freezer pair would have fit side by side in my 36-inch space, however, the cost! Each column costs about $7,000. Yikes! The freezer column also does not provide much more space than in a standard side by side fridge like the one I was replacing in our remodel. In addition, a skinny fridge doesn't allow for storage of big platters, like a Thanksgiving turkey. In the end I went with the 36-inch-wide Liebherr that has two freezer drawers on the bottom, plus I added an additional under-the-counter unit of two freezer drawers, installed at the end of my sink run. That unit is the panel-ready Summit CL2F249, roughly $2,000, and it performs well for my cooking needs.
 |
| I love the additional freezer drawers at the end of my sink run |
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| A counter-depth refrigerator, via Bosch |
You'll often hear it said that appliances come in standard sizes, but there's a great deal of variation in refrigerators. So-called "standard" 36-inch refrigerators vary in height and width, and more importantly, depth. This is immediately apparent to anyone shopping for a "counter-depth" fridge. What the industry calls a "counter-depth" fridge costs several thousand dollars more than a conventional refrigerator—and still protrudes past your countertops. If you're looking for a more streamlined look, here are the options.
Recessed, Counter-Depth, Built-In, or Fully Integrated
Before you go shopping for your refrigerator, become familiar with the common terms. A standard, 36-inch wide, refrigerator is about 33 inches deep. The standard base cabinet is 24 inches deep. If you purchase a standard fridge, a good 8-9 inches will protrude past the surrounding cabinetry. If you purchase a so-called "counter-depth" refrigerator it will cost a few thousand more, and the doors will still protrude a few inches past the cabinets. Only a built-in or integrated model will sit level with your cabinet doors.
So, what's a budget-minded homeowner to do?
|
| A standard refrigerator extends a good 8-9 inches past the cabinet fronts |
Recess a Full-Depth Refrigerator
If you love the counter-depth look but are put off by the price or even by the reduced interior cubic feet, a clever workaround is to recess it into the wall. This can be a smart and smart-looking option. Not only will you be able to get by with a lower cost standard refrigerator with the highest interior cubic feet available but you'll also be able to replace your refrigerator years into the future at a low replacement cost.
Recessing a refrigerator can require some advance planning. Your contractor (or you, if you are handy) will need to carve out a recess into the rear wall of up to 8 inches by removing drywall and studs. And if the wall in question is a retaining wall, you will need to install a reinforcement beam.
Note: This solution will not be completely "integrated." You will have a few inches gap on the sides of the fridge, so that the doors can swing open. If you overlook this, it could make opening the doors fully or even removing interior shelves and drawers difficult or even impossible.
|
| A counter-depth refrigerator protrudes a few inches past the cabinets, via Bosch |
Counter-Depth Refrigerators
Another option is the counter-depth fridge. Though a counter-depth refrigerator may sound like a dream come true, it's a bit of a misnomer, as the doors still extend past the counter top and surrounding cabinetry. (See photo above.) You can't recess the doors past the hinges or the doors won't open. Another thing to note about these models is that as you lose depth, you lose interior cubic feet, and thus, storage space. For models that cost a few hundred dollars more than standard refrigerators, it may not seem worth it to some buyers.
Built-In Refrigerators
Built-in models have no gaps on the sides, as they have special hinges that allow the doors to open without swinging wider. Zero-clearance models include Sub Zero, Liebherr, Bosch, BlueStar, Fisher and Paykel, and Haier, among many others. Search for "zero-clearance."
|
| My refrigerator, a Liebherr that has been paneled and is integrated |
Integrated Refrigerators
Integrated refrigerators look seamless. To achieve this seamlessness, you pay about twice the cost of a standard refrigerator. Integrated models are sold without panels. The buyer can choose to purchase a stainless steel panel, if you like that look, or to order panels from your cabinet maker for a more streamlined look, both at extra cost.
|
| My refrigerator, during installation and before the panels were installed |
|
| I ordered panels to match my pantries from the cabinet maker |
Paneled models are the most expensive. The Sub Zero 36-inch currently costs about $13,000. I went with German-made Liebherr at half the cost; they're now about $7,500—middle of the range—and I'm very happy with it. At the lower end of the integrated price range there is also the Fisher and Paykel Active Smart refrigerator that ranges from $4,000 for stainless steel to $7,000 for a tall, panel-ready model. Designers love the F&P, as contractors encounter few problems installing it. But note that it does have the least amount of interior storage space. Though sold in three heights—72, 80, and 84 inches tall—that's a bit misleading, as all three models are exactly the same refrigerator, sold in different enclosure sizes.
All three have the same internal capacity (16.8 cu. ft.), the same layout, same number of shelves and bins.
|
| via Houzz |
The only difference is the taller 80-inch and 84-inch models sit on an elevated platform and are fitted with longer doors.
The taller F&P models cost a few thousand more. If you don't mind paying more for "the look" of a taller refrigerator that integrates into your tall pantries, F&P might be the fridge for you. After you panel them they're visually on par with very high-end models like Sub-Zero.
|
| Fridge and freezer columns, via Subzero |
Columns
Separate freezer and refrigerator columns is a trend that's been gaining momentum among high-end kitchen designers. It can sometimes solve workflow issues. It can address the problem in a kitchen design where there isn't enough room along one run to house both together. Or it can simply present nice symmetry in designs that call for for a column on either end of a run. Though it's the most expensive option, I briefly considered it. I'm a weekend batch cooker and I need as much freezer space as refrigerator space, if not more.
|
| Batch cooking in my old narrow, galley kitchen—I don't miss it! |
The skinniest column available is the 18-inch-wide Subzero. A fridge and freezer pair would have fit side by side in my 36-inch space, however, the cost! Each column costs about $7,000. Yikes! The freezer column also does not provide much more space than in a standard side by side fridge like the one I was replacing in our remodel. In addition, a skinny fridge doesn't allow for storage of big platters, like a Thanksgiving turkey. In the end I went with the 36-inch-wide Liebherr that has two freezer drawers on the bottom, plus I added an additional under-the-counter unit of two freezer drawers, installed at the end of my sink run. That unit is the panel-ready Summit CL2F249, roughly $2,000, and it performs well for my cooking needs.
|
| I love the additional freezer drawers at the end of my sink run |
Thank you so much for addressing the 'counter depth' description. I was shopping for a refrigerator and got very excited to find so many refrigerators described as 'counter depth' . . . only to be disappointed that they actually are NOT counter depth. Bummer! My budget is small, so I will have to live with my oh so fat and intrusive refrigerator. I am hopeful that one day it will be different. It is obvious that the need is there . . . let's hope the designers and manufacturers catch up!
ReplyDeleteKaren, I was shocked when I learned how much of the fridge would stick out past the cabinet doors. When I wrote this a few years ago, I thought recessing it into the wall was an option for me. Then I learned I needed zero-clearance doors and at the time those were only available on the integrated models. That's changing. Now Bosche and Haier, and other lines are doing that on their counter-depth models. I updated the article to reflect this. Maybe by the next time you're shopping for a fridge the manufacturers will really nail this problem!
DeleteThank you for such great information.
ReplyDeleteI never knew all these possibilities.
We currently have a counter depth which I love ,hubs hates because if size .
Unfortunately mechanically hasn't been great and having to get another refrigerator.
I loathe the look of a fridge sticking out far past the cabinets.
A slight little ok,,but I'd much prefer a built in .However my budget may not allow ,so im considering a contractor to help add a lil depth to make a bigger one not stick out.
Thanks again ..
How did it go? I think it's a really good solution—and the least costly!
DeleteWell, you can always go with a traditional freezer on top refrigerator, which tend to be smaller and don't protrude as much. The idea of telling the contractor to recess a standard refrigerator will cost a lot more than the $500 difference for a counter-depth refrigerator. My dad just bought a new counter-depth side-by-side Whirlpool refrigerator to replace his 20 years old Admiral side-by-side, and he paid less than $1,700 for it, including delivery and water line hook up. A standard refrigerator with the same features and quality would have cost $1,200 - $1,300.
ReplyDeleteI'd only call in a contractor if I needed a support beam. I've cut out recesses in wallboard before for things like medicine cabinets, and it shouldn't be difficult—unless there's a structural reason to not cut into the 2x4s.
DeleteThank you so much for this
ReplyDeleteThank you for reading!
DeleteThank you Thank you for this post! It is one of the best ones on this exact topic. Can you share which model you chose and if you're liking it? I can't find the Liebherr 72" panel ready, since as you mentioned it doesn't change the interior space and I am short, so hoping to minimize the height and gain a cabinet above that isn't too difficult to access.
ReplyDeleteI went with the Liebherr HC2080 panel-ready and I'm very happy with it so far. It's 80" tall. Liebherr doesn't have a 72" model. The Fisher and Paykel Active Smart is the 72" tall one. Good luck with your kitchen!
DeleteThank you for sharing. I hope you continue to write. I am in the midst of my renovation and used your kitchen as my primary inspiration. I have a panel ready F & P fridge. I just found out I need to order door handles. Did you use your cabinet handles. I love how you can't tell it's a fridge. Do they feel substantial enough now that you have had your fridge for a while. Did your cabinet maker have any problems installing the handles? Thank you!
ReplyDeleteI used the same handles as the cabinets. They are white finger-pulls aka edge pulls and they do disappear into the cabinetry. If I had it to do again, I'd use a white bar pull as the edge pulls can be hard to use if your hands are slippery or you've got an armful of groceries. Also, anyone with arthritis would find them difficult to use. Live and learn!
DeleteHi, I'm buying the panel-ready Liebherr HC2082 and doing an IKEA kitchen. I came upon your very informative blog while trying to figure out how the Liebherr will be installed - Do the door panels end up hiding the cabinet it is "built" into (the way frameless cabinets do? In other words, do I need a box that the Liebherr is installed into, and then cover panels that will frame the fridge out, or should the fridge be drilled directly onto the cover panels?
ReplyDeleteWith the Liebherr you don't need a refrigerator cabinet. I installed mine in between two pantries with no extra side panels. I've also seen them installed next to the wall with one side panel on the end that isn't abutting the wall. Hope that helps!
ReplyDelete